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Anne Willan: From My Chateau Kitchen Rezensionen: From My Château Kitchen revolves around three subjects: the author's life in the 17th-century Burgundian château she and her husband own; the work of the farmers, vintners, restaurateurs, and others who live in the area and define its spirit; and Burgundian food, the glorious regional plats that represent a time-honored yet ever-evolving cuisine. Anne Willan, founder and president of La Varenne cooking school (now headquartered at the château), skillfully weaves these strands into a romantic but down-to-earth memoir. With more than 300 color photos and 160 adroitly selected recipes, the book offers both armchair excitement and practical kitchen direction. Those drawn to French regional cooking and the life that anchors it will embrace the book.
In chapters such as "The Adventure Begins," "On Burgundian Tables," and "The Wider Scene," Willan comes, sees, and is conquered--repeatedly. Best of all are her shrewdly drawn human portraits. We meet, among others, the château gardener who picks vegetables only at maximum size, a blacksmith who guards his homemade ratafia in a cathedral cellar, and a father-son pair who operate a traveling cider press. Willan's recipes--all meticulously written--accompany the discussions. Traditional Beef Bourguignon (a definitive formula), Warm Wild Mushroom Mousse, Madame Milbert's Rabbit Terrine, and Apple Gâteau Le Fey are just some of the dishes that illustrate a time, place, or person. Closing with a chapter that presents the château wedding of Willan's daughter (and includes the wedding cake recipe), the book comes full circle; it returns readers to a beginning and reminds them that food, which is the life of the Burgundian land, is without break, beginning or end. --Arthur Boehm
Better for the coffee table than for the kitchen This is a lovely book: stellar photography, an engaging text and interesting lay-out make it a pleasure to peruse. The indigenous culinary culture of Burgundy, exquisite taste, a good dose of leisure, and the appropriate worldly means to support all that in style combine into a dream of chateau life that one can vicariously enjoy spending a quiet Sunday afternoon with this volume. Inspired by these visual feasts, I did a spot check on the recipes that are scattered throughout the book, choosing the banner dish "Gateau le Feÿ" (a kind of apple confit) that adornes the jacket. Alas, total disaster. The cooking temperature given in the recipe is evidently wrong: don't let anybody try to persuade you that by keeping apple slices at 150 degrees F, even for 14 hrs, you will end up with something that is "meltingly soft" and "translucent"! So much for a book that boasts a separate recipe editor, a kitchen director, and a whole team for recipe testing. So, if you want a romantic coffee table book, by all means get it, but if you are after the occasional culinary pleasure as well, wait for a paper back edition that (one hopes) will correct deficiencies. In the meantime, when you need a working recipe for apple confit, go to Jean-Georges, Cooking at Home With a Four Star Chef. Alternatively, you might even consider applying with Anne Willan for the position of chief recipe tester. A month free room and board in a Burgundian chateau would sound great, and she obviously needs good people.
Beautiful Food; Accomplished chef; You TOO can do these While I was honored to be a student at Le Fey at La Varenne the summer of 99, I was also delighted to see the approval copy of this book on her coffee table. The books reads just as she speaks. Her extensive knowledge gains respect with anyone who has been in any kitchen, and her personable style makes it a delightful journey to France for those who have traveled there, or those who hope to soon. The recipes are very straighforward, and I can affirm how well the recipes are tested before they go out of her kitchen. [For example: The most helpful section of the Cook It Right book is when she tells you what has gone wrong, and how to fix it.] Her thoroughness is so appreciated by those of us who continue to learn throughout our lives. The Chateau Kitchen will be an absolute favorite, on your coffeetable, or kitchen shelf alike.